Mandolin nut slot height

Using Feeler Gauges to Control Nut Slot Depth. Main Menu Mandolin; Resonator Measure the height of the first two frets by laying a straight edge across. Mandolin; Ukulele; Violin; Accessories. Apparel; Clean the nut slot Scrape, cut, Rough in the nut height and shape. Jul 06,  · My mandolin's nut is rectangular. Should it That avoids buzzes in the nut slot at both sides of the nut, That is why I check the nut height with a.

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String height at the nut can also be affected by the condition of the frets, string gauge and pick attack. Tenor 32mm mm 3mm 5. If we cut the nut slots to the correct height and angle as described above, and then remove material from the top of the nut until the slots are half of the string diameters deep or a little deeper , the shape of the nut will take care of itself. To check string height at the nut, fret each string on the 3rd fret and check the gap between the string and the 1st fret. Nut height Check this:

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Here's a gnat's-eye view at the face of a nut as seen from the leeward side of the second fret. The slots for these two strings are cut so that they completely support the string. The sketch above relates to fretted instruments, but the basic principles are no different for violin family and other unfretted instruments. I'll try to explain the clearance in a minute. Here's an idea of how it works on a bass: Having the slot cut too high above the frets or an unfretted board of some type means that the act of pressing the string down to the first few frets actually stretches the string, raising the pitch and throwing the intonation off in the process.

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Ideally, the nut slot height is identical to any other fret. But remember that strings can 'saw' themselves through a nut just through normal use. I ordinarily leave a nut slot a little higher than necessary at first, to allow for the string to cut itself a little lower. I also avoid synthetic and elephant ivory, both of which are too soft and rubbery to make good nuts for steel strings. Here's a shimmed-up mess of a nut that has all the problems: These slots are all too deep, but the B is still so high it doesn't play in tune, so someone shoved a piece of ebony under it to try and correct the intonation.

Big "Ugh" for this one. People often comment on certain strings e. Mandolin A's are always the most troublesome because they have to make compound bends from the nut: And the length from the nut to the post being the other important factor. And being plain strings, they tend to bind if the slots aren't cut right. The D's, being wound, tend to refine their own slots. When you tune, you always tune up to a note, never down, right?

It's about friction in the slot. And with a poorly cut nut, when you tune up, the tension on the length of string between the nut and the string post is greater per unit of length than the part you actually play, that's between the nut and the bridge. It has nothing to do with the tuning machines, which people just love to blame, but everything to do with setup, particularly how precisely the string slots at the nut are cut. A quick word about creaking guitar G strings: Bone is superior to ivory for a nut material because it's harder and burnishes better.

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Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 25 of Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Nut height I'm sorry if this is a dumb question. I've read RM's set up guide and was also directed to another website that discusses the importance of setting the nut slots so the string rests half its diameter into the nut. This is how mine is set up for the G string, but the D, A and E are lower. Should the height of the nut slope downward toward the treble end? Then the smaller strings wouldn't be set as deep.

My mandolin's nut is rectangular. Should it be trapazoidal? I hope I'm describing this so you understand my question. Nut height I usually end up with a bit of a trapezoid shape. I typically adjust the depth to where the strings are the most comfortable to play, then I loosen the strings to expose the top of the re-slotted nut, I then sand the top to minimize the deep slots.

I will also re-file the edges so they are not sharp. The following members say thank you to jim simpson for this post: Nut height The important things are: That gives us comfortable string height without buzzes at the first fret. That gives us smooth accurate tuning. That avoids buzzes in the nut slot at both sides of the nut, and gives us the most durable nut slots.

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Since the posts are not directly behind the nut slots, that means the the slots will ideally be slightly diagonal across the nut viewed from above. None of that directly affects the performance of the nut or the sound of the instrument, but there are aesthetic considerations in all parts of the mandolin, so the appearance of the nut is as important as we want it to be. If we cut the nut slots to the correct height and angle as described above, and then remove material from the top of the nut until the slots are half of the string diameters deep or a little deeper , the shape of the nut will take care of itself.

That's a more complicated way of saying pretty much the same thing Jim Simpson said. Nut height Jim and John, Thanks for the responses. It cleared things up for me. The following members say thank you to BJ O'Day for this post: Nut height For me… the smaller diameter unwound ones usually get a slot at least as deep as the string… which could be. Nut height Check this: Nut height In theory I guess that's ideal but in reality, having the unwound strings a little deeper doesn't seem to hurt.


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Originally posted by TheAngryDolphin:. Are there any differences between the knives? It says that some of them do more damage, but doesnt list any specific numbers. This mode will double their damage for damage or a OHK.

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They are inferior to normal knifes if you don't plan on using the activated mode since they have a small damage delay on quick knifes. The defaults always deal damage.

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